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In my next life I want to be a truffle hunter. I just returned from Piedmont where I took care of number one on my bucket list by going on a white truffle hunt. Arranged by a friend who lives in LA but hails from Piedmont, she booked my truffle hunt with Ezio at Tra Arte E Querce, with whom she is friends. Ezio doesn't speak English and I don't speak Italian, so he sent me out with his 30+ year old son whose name I did not get but who speaks good English and had been truffle hunting since he was 9 or 10. We were accompanied by Lola, a 5 year old mixed breed white truffle hunting dog. We hiked with our walking sticks down to the wet truffle forest behind the farm house, and Lola did her stuff. Each time she excitedly pawed the ground we found truffles. After a couple of hours we had 5 white truffles (including 2 very good sized and 4 black truffles. Lola was spot on each time she pawed. The truffle hunting requires patience and sensitivity. Truffle hunters are artist/surgeons. They carefully dig where the dogs point, using a small tool if needed to break the earth and mostly their hands. They dig, smell the mud for truffle traces, then dig more mostly with their fingers, repeating this process until the truffle is exposed, and then they extract it. It is a very careful process and triumphant when the truffle comes out whole and pungent. I mostly watched but did get to bring one out of its mud crib and into the light. The extracted truffles are carefully placed into a bag. After a couple of hours we were done Lola was out of digging spots. We hiked happily back to the farm house, said our goodbyes. I went into Ezio's trattoria for lunch. I was served the customary local Barolo and antipasti, then ordered Tajarin con Tartufo Bianco, thin white egg pasta and white truffles. Ezio shaved a mass of white truffles and I pigged out, eating the truffle shavings with my fingers. The energy of this dining room was warm and friendly. At the next table is a group from France and at another table a Swiss couple. Ezio and staff treated each of us as family. At last I was sated and took my leave. Grazie Mille Ezio for an amazing experience: This is a total experience not to be missed:
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