Vá Vá - Lisbon
Vá Vá
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Vavá was founded in 1958 and, in its heyday, became a bohemian institution — drawing students, writers, artists, filmmakers, musicians and journalists to its late-night service. After years of decline, the restaurant finally closed in late 2024. Now, one year later, it has reopened: fully renovated, yet preserving the cherished ceramic panels by Modernist artist Menez. The best surprise of all is seeing the house run entirely by a young team: genuinely kind, sharp and attentive — everything it had stopped being in recent years, and the opposite of what you still find in too many traditional restaurants and shops across Lisbon. The menu – also by a young cheff – is uncompromisingly traditional Portuguese staples. Unlike the creative and delicious reinventions of neighbouring Chico Esperto, the bet here is all-in on quality. And it works. The 'bochechas estufadas ' I had were well above average: very tender, in its rich but delicate drippings. There 's only good things to say about a traditional place that reinvents itself, betting on quality of food and service, and succeeds in attracting young talent to carry it forward. That 's how centenarian places are built. Food: 5 Service: 5 Atmosphere: 5
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